The state of Gujarat in India has a huge ethnic diversity. Just one single region of Gujarat (Saurashtra) used to be home to no fewer than 212 of India's 562 independent kingdoms. In the wild west of Gujarat, in the Kutch region around the city of Bhuj (still rebuilding after the devastating earthquake of 2001), dozens of different tribal groups turn out some of India's most vibrant handicrafts.
Kutch is now officially "Kachchh". Spelling the word Kachchh takes almost as long as actually getting there — but no matter how you spell the name, the region is one of the most colourful of an already kaleidoscopic state.
Bordering on the Little Rann of Kachchh (about 100km west of Gujarat's biggest city Ahmedabad), the princely state of Zainabad covers just 72sq km. The Talukdar (hereditary ruler) of Zainabad, Malek Shri Sabir Khan, is also manager of Desert Coursers Safari Camp. The Little Rann of Kachchh is the last place in the world where the khor (Asiatric Wild Ass) can be found, and Desert Coursers makes a great base for exploration.
"The Little Rann of Kachchh is the most desolate place on earth", says Malek.
"When you're in the desert, you feel as though you're standing in the middle of a plate. You can hear the silence. There's not a stone, not a tree, nothing at all . . . just the horizon, stretching 360°".
The "Great" Rann of Kachchh, northwest of Little Rann, is a marshy saltplain surrounding an "island" of raised terrain that somehow manages to support life. One of the best times to visit is during the full-moon festival of Sharad Utsav.
On the northern border of Kachchh, next to Pakistan, most of the residents are Kachchhi Harijans.
Mahatma Gandhi gave the name harijan to the caste formerly known as "untouchables". In the rest of India, the term harijan is now regarded as a little condescending (dalit being the preferred term), but in this region, the Harijans seem proud of the title.
Their racial diversity of the border peoples is exemplified by the startling red hair of some of the villagers, showing a connection with the ancient Greeks who invaded this region some 2,300 years ago. The women of Dhrobana village are proud of their outstanding craft skills.
Down on the plains, the village of Bhirandiyara is one of the villages of the Banni region, just north of Bhuj. The Banni villages are also renowned for their remarkable handicraft skills. And another must-visit cottage industries village is Bhujodi, just outside Bhuj.
In a typical factory, it will take two weavers about eight days to produce a fine-wool shawl, which will sell for around 3,600 rupees (RM260).
It has taken Bhuj, the biggest city in Kachchh district, more than five years to bounce back from the disastrous earthquake that struck in 2001. Fortunately, the craft market of Bhuj is still in operation. This market, in Darbar Gadh Road near the Old Vegetable Market, is the very best place to buy Kachchhi handicrafts. The night after the Sharad Utsav full moon, a super-colourful parade of dancers and drummers takes place in Bhuj.
Kachchh has many other places worth visiting too. The ancient Harappan settlement of Dholavira, dating back to around 3,000BC and with evidence of sophisticated town planning, is just one reason for a return visit.
On the west coast, Mundra Port is a huge, fully automated new terminal — the first privately owned port in India — while just 30 minutes away by road, the ancient dhow-building port of Mandvi goes back to the days (hundreds of years ago) when wooden ships from Mandvi sailed as far as Zanzibar and London.
Mandvi is also a fitting place to end this trip. As the sun goes down over the grand Laxmi Vilas Palace of Maharao Pragmal Sinhji, not far from Mandvi Harbour, there is time to reflect on the dying splendour of the days of the maharajahs. The princely rulers may now be only figureheads — but even today, the largesse of a prince can be more favourable than the sleight of hand of a politician.
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